Audi S3 8P Turbo Removal Guide
Prep:
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Jack up the front end of the S3
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Axle stands under each jacking point
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Remove undertray
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Remove hose going into the auxiliary water pump to drain the coolant system, refit hose & clip when done
Underside:
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Remove middle exhaust clamp
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Undo exhaust hanger
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Unbolt downpipe from turbo and push the downpipe to the passenger side off the turbo studs
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Remove driveshaft heat shield (awkward I know)
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Remove turbo support bracket completely (it's a struggle I know)
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Unbolt turbo drain from turbo and let it hang (as in photo)
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Unbolt turbo oil feed completely from turbo and engine
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Unbolt turbo coolant feed and let it hang (as in photo)
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Unplug N75 valve on turbo
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Unclip N75 wiring from turbo
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Unclip turbo outlet pipe from turbo and unbolt from side of the engine (as in photo)
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Move turbo outlet pipe to the side
Topside:
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Remove airbox/induction kit
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Unclip turbo coolant return from next to the timing belt cover
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Remove coolant return hose going into the top of the expansion bottle
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Awkwardly unbolt heat shield/coolant rail as one (2 spline bolts, 2 18mm? bolts)
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Unclip coolant pipe from bulkhead to coolant rail (at the very back)
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Move coolant rail/heat shield over near the battery gently and out the way
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Remove two hoses going to the turbo from the rocker cover (top left of rocker cover)
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Remove top 5 12mm nuts holding the turbo to the engine
Removal:
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The turbo studs face up at an angle so the turbo will come out as such, the bottom row of nuts do not need touching at all.
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Try and pull the turbo up and back towards the bulkhead and it will eventually come free and come out
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At this point when it's off the studs, with your left hand drop that side down so the N75 area is facing down, turbo should be at a 45° angle coming out
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Wiggle it up and out, mind the exhaust studs on the coolant pipes and the coolant hose next to the timing belt cover getting shagged
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It should come out and look as photographed
EA888.1/2 Timing Chain Upgrade to EA888.3 (MQB)
Using the right hand timing chain guide from the EA888.3 (MQB) engine, it's longer on both the top and bottom, likely to reduce chain slap and noise. You'll also be upgrading to the later and more reliable style chain tensioner if yours is 2009/2010.
Part numbers:
1x 06K109158BR (chain)
1x 06H109469T (guide rail)
1x 06H109509Q (guide rail)
1x 06K109469M (guide rail)
1x 06K109467K (timing chain tensioner)
1x 06K109507F (oil pump chain tensioner)
Don't be like me and forget to order the EA888.3 oil pump chain tensioner, but you can trim the original and get it to fit like I did. (It's fitted in the last photo)
Hope this helps some people, if your EA888.1/2 engine is from an 09/10 vehicle then as a precaution pop the inspection cap out of the chain cover and check what style tensioner you have fitted, the older style will randomly fail & you'll end up with bent inlet valves
Retrofitting Genuine Hella LED Tail Lights
Step 1) Buy genuine LED tail lights
(eBay, breaker, etc)
Step 2) Buy adaptor looms (https://ebay.us/m/221MZp)
Step 3) Fit lights & looms
Step 4) Buy AliExpress or Genuine VCDS
Step 5) Find byte 18 as shown in the last photo, mine in the top bar is 00 (factory front xenon, factory halogen rear)
Step 6) Find what you'll need to replace this with, copy the whole long coding, edit yours to suit, mine changed to 15, paste the whole long coding and press go.
















